Mogador
What we (truly!) love
in Essaouira
ADDRESSES, PLACES & TIPS | ATLANTIS 12
Essaouira, chosen
One does not settle in Essaouira by chance. You arrive one day, carried by the wind, and something happens: a light, a scent of thuyas and iodine, the sound of waves against the ramparts. And you never quite leave.
That is what happened to us. We chose it for what it conceals: a rare gentleness of life, a creativity bubbling up everywhere, a humanity in the alleyways unlike any other city in Morocco.
What you'll find on this page are the addresses we share with our friends.
To see and to live
We always start with Bab Sbaa - it's the gate that sets the tone. A few steps to the right, Dar Souiri is worth a stop, for an exhibition or a musical improvisation.
Drift to the place de l'Horloge, cross the small adjoining square that resembles Sardinia as much as a Buenos Aires alley, then ask your way to Bayt Dakira which tells the story of living together in the most beautiful way, and a little further on, the Essaouira History Museum - two places that change the way you see the city.
From there, climb up to the Skala. The cannons, the seagulls, the Atlantic facing you - we never get over it. Walking along the ramparts, you'll reach Place Moulay El Hassan, perfect at the end of the afternoon. Then wander as you wish - Place aux Grains, the fish market, the Zaouia Sidna Blal, patron saint of the Gnaouas…
Push open the doors. Lose yourself in the alleys. That is where Essaouira truly reveals itself.
Lunch
- Dar Lawama
The most breathtaking Atlantic viewpoint in the region. We come as much for the eyes as for the plate. But for us, it is far more than that: for over twenty years we've had our table here, and long had our refuge here too. It is here, facing this ocean, that the idea of Essaouira took root, and with it, Atlantis 12.
- Océan Vagabond
Feet in the sand, facing the Atlantic.
- Le Chalet de la Plage
An institution. The sea on the plate, always.
- Cheb Zak
A discreet address in the Medina, unassuming on the outside but where you'll savour lobster on a lovely rooftop.
Dinner - our favourites
- La Table by Ma Dada
Refined Moroccan cuisine, in a superb setting.
- Le Love by Caravane
Unique atmosphere, careful cuisine.
- Dar Baba
Intimate and flavourful.
Nightlife
Programme to be checked - usually from Wednesday or Thursday onwards
Argan oil
- Lalla Izza
Our trusted address for authentic argan oil.
Authentic cooperatives
By appointment - cooking workshop and argan-making
Don't hesitate to write to us if you'd like more details about any of these addresses - we'll happily guide you.